let's learn about needles.

sewing needle {according to wikipedia}:  a long slender tool with a pointed tip

Originally made from bone or wood, modern day needles are constructed from carbon steel wire and then plated with nickel or gold.  Needles can get fancy and sometimes are plated with platinum or titanium. 

Hand-sewing needles:

These needles have a hole in the blunt tip of the needle, called the EYE.  This eye is used to carry thread through the fabric.  They also have a pointed tip that varies according to needle type.  Needles are sized according to needle thickness and length.  The thicker the needle, the smaller the number on the package.  Example: Size 1 will be thicker than a size 10 needle. Take a look at these sharps...

{picture from here}

Some basic hand-sewing needles include...
sharps {general sewing needle with sharp point, medium length, and round eye}
embroidery {similar to sharps, but with a longer eye for multiple threads}
quilting {shorter needles with a smaller eye, used to make finer stitches}
milliners {longer needles used for basting and pleating}
ballpoints {have a rounded point, used for knits}
beading {small point and eye to fit through beads or sequins}
bodkin {long thick needle with ballpoint, used to thread elastic or ribbon}
upholstery {heavy long needles, straight or curved used to sew heavy fabrics}

Sewing machine needles:

It is important to understand the needle choices you have when you are using your sewing machine.  If you are doing only beginner sewing you would probably be satisfied with using the size 80/12 universal needle.  But if you want to improve your stitch quality, then it is best to understand how to pick the best needle for the job.

Let's go over the anatomy of the sewing machine needle...

{picture from here}

shank:  is the top of the needle that inserts into the machine
shaft:  body of the needle below the shank, this part determines the needles size
front groove:  sits above the needles' eye, cradles thread for smooth stitches
point:  tip of needle that penetrates fabric and passes thread to bobbin, different types needles have different shapes
scarf:  indentation at back of needle used to prevent skipped stitches
eye:  hole at the end of needle that thread passes, size determined by needle type


Your needle choices will be determined by fabric, thread, and stitches that you will be sewing.
The type of fabric will determine the shape of the needles' point and the fabric's weight will determine the needles' size.

Needle sizes {diameter of needles} are printed on the needle package something like this...

80/12

80 is the European measurement for the diameter of the needle
12 is the American numbering

60/8 {lightweight} georgette or organdy
70/10 or 80/12 {medium weight fabric} linen, lycra, jersey
90/14 or 100/16 {heavy weight fabric} denim, vinyl, upholstery, canvas
110/18 or 120/19 {very heavy weight fabrics}

Needle names and types determine the needle point.
{Remember this will be determined by fabric type}

universal {slightly rounded point}
jean/denim {slim and acute point}
embroidery {small ballpoint point to prevent damaging embroidery stitches}
quilting {slim acute slightly rounded}
microtex {very slim and acute}
topstitching {sharp, extra pointy}
metallic {universal point}


Whatever needle is needed one of the most important things to remember is to always change your needle when you need to!!!  A bent or dull needle can snag or damage your fabric and break stitches, which can lead to a frustrated seamstress :)  So change those needles often!!