Tuesday, March 22, 2011

how to make an a-line dress.

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This dress is one of the most popular little girl dresses and is pretty easy to make.
A girl is to a a-line jumper, as a boy is to the jon jon!

I am sewing this for a friend, since I am stuck in the boy world of clothing...
nothing makes me long for a little girl more than staring at beautiful fabric!

Anyways, I am using the "Lucy" pattern from Children's Corner, but any a-lined dress pattern will do.
**Note I am not following their directions, because I developed my own way of doing it, so follow at your own risk. HA!

Other great patterns for an a-line jumper is Holly & Hunter and William and Winnie.  

What you will need from the store... main fabric, lining fabric, 2-4 buttons
The amount of fabric needed will vary according to size.
I always measure my pattern to see the amount of fabric the dress will need, because they over estimate sometimes and you waste 1/4 yard.

Let's get started...

First we will cut the lining.
When you make Lucy there is not a front seam, so the back and front will be cut on a fold.
This means you need to unfold your fabric and fold the edge to meet the middle of the fabric.
Do this on both sides.

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Next place your pattern on the folds of the fabric


Cut out your fabric lining front and back.

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{what you get when it is unfolded}

I then place my lining onto my main fabric to cut out front piece and back piece...

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{what you get when it is unfolded}

For the main fabric, put right sides together and sew down the side seam...
Sew from under the arm to the bottom of the jumper.


Now do the same for the lining.
Put right sides together and sew down the side seam...

Flip the main fabric right side out and leave the lining wrong side out...

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Place the main fabric into the lining...
This will put right sides of the main fabric and lining together, so you can sew around the top.
{this will make more sense in a second}

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Match the front and back straps of the lining to the main fabric.

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Now pin into place around the entire top of the jumper.  
Make sure you are matching side seams!!!

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{match those side seams}

Here is my jumper after pinning together...

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Now it is time to sew.
Sew around the outside edges of the top of the jumper.
My pattern called for 1/4'' seam.

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Remember to leave your needle down, pick up your presser foot, and turn those corners!!!

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Here is my jumper after sewing around the top...

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Now we are going to trim closer to the seam around the top of the jumper.
You do this, so the fabric does not pull, when you flip it around.

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Flip and iron your edges on the top of the jumper.
**Tip... Use your scissor tips to poke out the corners of the straps... 
this will help them be square and oh so pretty!!
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Now to finish the bottom of the jumper...

In the middle of this slightly confusing {internet} explanation you will wonder...
"Why are we doing this?"
Just hang in there because we are getting a starting point to begin sewing around the bottom of the jumper!!

Lets start with jumper out in front of you.

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Take the left side seam of the lining fabric and fold it up about 1/4 inch...
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Now take the left side seam of the main fabric and fold it under about 1/4 inch...

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Fold them together and hold it there for a second...

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Now reach your other hand into the jumper at this left side seam and grab the turned under raw edges...

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Here is me pinching those raw edges together...

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Now pin this side seam together...

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Continue around the jumper, matching the bottom of the lining edge to the main fabric edge.
**Just for your peace of mind... it will look funny and completely wrong!

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Now sew along the bottom edge of the jumper.
But stop about 3 inch before the spot you began, so we can turn the jumper through this opening...

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{3 inch opening}
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{jumper before turning...told you it would look funny}

Turn your jumper through that opening...

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{jumper after turning}

Get your iron and let's close the hole!

Fold under the edges to match the rest of the jumper... for me 1/4 inch.

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Iron and pin into place.

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{Make sure you catch the lining underneath too}

Iron around the entire bottom edge of the jumper.
*If you are going to make it reversible, try to match the lining and main fabric perfectly while you iron.

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{this will keep the other fabric from peaking out when it is reversed}

Top stitch close to the bottom edge of the jumper.
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I also like to top stitch around the top of the jumper too.

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Mark with a erasable pin, the length for you button holes on the front straps of the jumper.
I am using covered buttons... check out my "how to cover a button." post.

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{if you use bigger buttons, make sure you start the button hole lower, so it doesn't pop over the edge of the strap}

Sew your button holes and cut the opening for your button holes.

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And lastly!!  
Sew on your buttons to the back straps.

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Congratulations you are finished!!!

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Happy Sewing!

Monday, March 21, 2011

how to cover a button.

Have you ever needed a button, but could find one to match?
Well, I needed one for this dress.
I thought that I would take pics and share how I do it...

{dress tutorial coming soon}

This is what you should get in your kit...
{button front, back, and 2 other pieces/tools}
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Gather your fabric and cut 2 small squares per button
FYI...
Most fabrics you can see the metal underneath when you use only one layer... so I use two

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Put the first piece of fabric FACE DOWN on top of the white button tool.

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Next put the other piece of fabric on top of your first fabric.

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Now press your button top into the white button tool on top of the fabric.
The fabric should gather around your metal button edge

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{make sure you get the fabric all the way around your button}

Now we will trim the edge of the fabric to about 1/4 inch all the way around the button edge.

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Push the fabric toward the center of the button, folding it into the button.

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Now place the metal button back on the back of the button.
{Make sure all your fabric edges are tucked neatly into the button}

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Holding the back in place, put the blue button tool on the back of the button and push to snap into place!

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{it can be stubborn, so sometimes I just put it on the floor and step on it}

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Pop your button out of the white tool...
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Wahoo for pretty fabric buttons!!! 

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Happy Sewing!!


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