I am still here!

I am so sorry that I have fallen behind on this blog!!!

I will not give you a sob story, but just share that we found out we were MOVING 2 days before we moved... HA!  You can imagine what my life has looked like over the past week and a half.  I was one panicked mama, but now can say things are better and I hope to finish up last weeks posts soon!

Thanks for hanging in there with me :)

let's talk about the parts of a machine.

{picture from here}

I wanted to go over the basic parts of a sewing machine.  This will not be to explain in detail how the machine works, but will give you an idea on parts and how to use them while you are sewing.  You have to understand your tools, before you can really use them!

Power switch:  used to turn your machine on and off

Presser foot:  detachable metal device that holds the fabric down against the feed dog

Presser foot lifter:  usually at the back of the machine, this raises and lowers the presser foot

Throat plate:  metal plate covering the feed dog, with a hole for the needle to pass through

Feed dog:  small metal device with teeth that carries the fabric forward or backward when sewing

Needle:  moves down to interlock the upper thread with the bobbin thread and up tightening the stitch

Thread take up:  goes down releasing the upper thread allowing the thread to interlock with bobbin thread and then goes down to tighten the stitch

Upper tension regulator:  can loosen or tighten the tension of the upper thread, creates a balanced stitch

Thread guide:  directs thread from the spool to other parts of needle

Spool pin: the rod that holds the spool of thread

Bobbin winder:  mechanism close to balance wheel for winding the bobbin

Balance wheel {or hand wheel}:  on the right side of the machine, controlled by the belt and if turned will put the needle up and down

Stitch length regulator:  controls the length of the stitches, make this longer for a gathering stitch

Stitch width regulator:  controls the width of stitches, usefully on a zigzag stitch

Bobbin case:  under the feed down, it is a metal case holding the bobbin that directs and controls the tension of the lower thread

Foot control {pedal}: the gas pedal of the machine, making it stitch

what to look for in a good sewing machine.

I thought that I would include some advice on sewing machines.

Let's start with the basics...

A sewing machine can be very basic to extremely complicated.
Very basic machines are simply mechanical, while other are electronic {computerized}.
While the type does not matter, they will perform different functions.

When looking for beginner machine I would encourage you to find one with the following features...

1.  Automatic button hole... usually this is a 1,2,3,4 step function found on the front of the machine.
2.  Adjustable needle position, which will allow you to move the needle to the left and right.
3.  A machine that performs a zigzag stitch that is adjustable in stitch width and length.
4.  A machine with a back-stitch function to finish your stitches {older machines do not have this}.
5.  A machine with a thread cutter and light!

These are basic functions that I used every time I am sewing!
There are lots of other features that are wonderful but not necessary for a beginner.

Some of these are...
An up and down needle position button.
Adjustable sewing speeds.
One step button hole function.
Memory functions to save common stitches {such as button hole sizes}.
Fun fancy stitch options.
And this list could go on and on...


Some basic presser foot attachments that are handy...
basic presser foot, button hole foot, zipper foot, and blind hem stitch foot

Other attachments that are wonderful, but not necessary...
Rolled hem foot {give you a nice rolled edge} and ruffler foot {actually creates a ruffle}. Specialized feet cater to what you are specially sewing.

When shopping for a machine I would suggest going to a dealer and letting them show you the different functions of their machines.  You are not necessarily going to purchase one from them, but you will become more educated on sewing machine functions and you can decide what you would like in a machine.

You can purchase machines from Walmart, Target, etc.  However, beware that you are not going to get the customer service or care that a sewing machine dealer will offer.
Most shops offer free classes, when you purchased a machine and they are worth it!!!
They will teach you the functions of your machine and you will begin learning how to sew.

Good basic brand machines are Singer, Brother, Janome, Bernina, and Baby Lock.

 {my first machine}

My first machine was given to me from my parents,  I sewed this machine to death and the technician told me to just throw it away!  I went home and tried to save it, but did end up tossing it.  I love that machine and it was perfect for my beginning sewing stages and lasted me 4 years of not stop sewing!  Not bad right?!?

 {I saved up for this one}

I have a Bernina Activa 220, but remember that I started off on a much more basic machine! My Bernina machine was purchased 4 years after I sewed my first machine to death :) I do love this machine and it stitches beautifully but I would probably save a little more to get a few more functions :)  What can I say!  I love my toys :)  Overall a great machine though.

 {Janome Magnolia 7330}

My sister got a great deal on a Janome machine that has tons of bells and whistles on it. She really has loved it and has gotten good customer service from the dealer.  This is middle of the range machine that should last you as long as you sew {other than servicing}!

Some people have asked me about the combo sewing/embroidery machines.  I have not purchased one of these machines and hear mixed reviews about them.  I have friends that have enjoyed them, but then have friends that are always taking them to the shop.  I do know that my embroidery machine needs service much more than my sewing machine, so if possible I would avoid buying a combo... but just because I cannot do without my sewing machine!!!  I would do lots of research and reading reviews before purchasing a combo machine. 

I know buying a machine is intimidating, but enjoy the process of learning along the way! Email me please if you have any questions!  {coolpeoplesew@gmail.com}

how to sew on a button.

I was going to create a my own video... but this was great!

{hang on through the beginning}

let's learn about needles.

sewing needle {according to wikipedia}:  a long slender tool with a pointed tip

Originally made from bone or wood, modern day needles are constructed from carbon steel wire and then plated with nickel or gold.  Needles can get fancy and sometimes are plated with platinum or titanium. 

Hand-sewing needles:

These needles have a hole in the blunt tip of the needle, called the EYE.  This eye is used to carry thread through the fabric.  They also have a pointed tip that varies according to needle type.  Needles are sized according to needle thickness and length.  The thicker the needle, the smaller the number on the package.  Example: Size 1 will be thicker than a size 10 needle. Take a look at these sharps...

{picture from here}

Some basic hand-sewing needles include...
sharps {general sewing needle with sharp point, medium length, and round eye}
embroidery {similar to sharps, but with a longer eye for multiple threads}
quilting {shorter needles with a smaller eye, used to make finer stitches}
milliners {longer needles used for basting and pleating}
ballpoints {have a rounded point, used for knits}
beading {small point and eye to fit through beads or sequins}
bodkin {long thick needle with ballpoint, used to thread elastic or ribbon}
upholstery {heavy long needles, straight or curved used to sew heavy fabrics}

Sewing machine needles:

It is important to understand the needle choices you have when you are using your sewing machine.  If you are doing only beginner sewing you would probably be satisfied with using the size 80/12 universal needle.  But if you want to improve your stitch quality, then it is best to understand how to pick the best needle for the job.

Let's go over the anatomy of the sewing machine needle...

{picture from here}

shank:  is the top of the needle that inserts into the machine
shaft:  body of the needle below the shank, this part determines the needles size
front groove:  sits above the needles' eye, cradles thread for smooth stitches
point:  tip of needle that penetrates fabric and passes thread to bobbin, different types needles have different shapes
scarf:  indentation at back of needle used to prevent skipped stitches
eye:  hole at the end of needle that thread passes, size determined by needle type


Your needle choices will be determined by fabric, thread, and stitches that you will be sewing.
The type of fabric will determine the shape of the needles' point and the fabric's weight will determine the needles' size.

Needle sizes {diameter of needles} are printed on the needle package something like this...

80/12

80 is the European measurement for the diameter of the needle
12 is the American numbering

60/8 {lightweight} georgette or organdy
70/10 or 80/12 {medium weight fabric} linen, lycra, jersey
90/14 or 100/16 {heavy weight fabric} denim, vinyl, upholstery, canvas
110/18 or 120/19 {very heavy weight fabrics}

Needle names and types determine the needle point.
{Remember this will be determined by fabric type}

universal {slightly rounded point}
jean/denim {slim and acute point}
embroidery {small ballpoint point to prevent damaging embroidery stitches}
quilting {slim acute slightly rounded}
microtex {very slim and acute}
topstitching {sharp, extra pointy}
metallic {universal point}


Whatever needle is needed one of the most important things to remember is to always change your needle when you need to!!!  A bent or dull needle can snag or damage your fabric and break stitches, which can lead to a frustrated seamstress :)  So change those needles often!!

let's learn about fabric.

Let's talk about FABRIC!

Fabric is a form of cloth, which is a textile.  Textile traditionally meant "woven fabric," coming from the Latin word textere meaning, to weave.  We could go on for hours and hours discussing the different types of fabric.  Just like thread, fabric can be made from different types of yarn...polyester, cotton, silk, nylon, wool...

Woven fabrics are made from 2 sets of yarn, a lengthwise called the warp and crosswise called the filling/weft.  The warp is put onto the loom and the filling is threaded through to create the fabric.

Knitted fabrics are made from a single yarn or sets of yarn.  Loops are formed with the yarn and put together.  The crosswise loops are called courses and lengthwise loops are called wales.

When sewing, it is important to understand the construction of the fabric, because different cuts of fabric have different stretches and properties while sewing.  Of course if you are just doing a crafty project, this may not matter.  But when sewing clothing the stretch of the fabric will affect the final product!

When you purchase fabric the fabric is cut or torn crosswise.
There is a little stretch in crosswise.

The lengthwise seam is finished by the manufacturer and has the least about of stretch. Most patterns have you cut pieces along the lengthwise grain {like mine up there}.

The bias is the across the fabric 45 degrees and is the stretchiest or the most give.  Cutting fabric this way is great for items that turn and curve like cording or ruffles or plackets.


Fabric is so wonderful!  I could spend hours and hours looking at the pretty colors and different types.  I love fabric and sometime buy it, without a project in mind.  However fabric can be made cheaply and poorly woven.  This is not a big deal, when doing small projects, but when sewing clothes or draperies that you want to last, you want to buy good quality textiles!

I hope this helps :)

and the winner is...

Jenny!!!  "And I am now a fan on facebook too."  

Look out for an email Jenny and thanks everyone for playing :)
Hope to have another great giveaway soon!!!
 

let's learn about thread

Who is ready to learn how to sew, by hand !?!?!
I am so excited about this week!
We are going to keep it simple and what better way to start than talking about THREAD...

{picture from here}

The history of thread began with the use of thin strips of animal hide to sew hide and fur together.  The first uses of thread were to create woven tapestries made of primarily wool yarn.  Seamstresses began to use the same material to create garments.  

Thread is a tightly twisted stands of 2 or more plys of yarn.  The difference between thread and yarn is that thread is used to sew together garments, where yarn is used to weave into a textile.  Most thread is wound around a spool to be used in a machine.  Thread should be smooth to prevent fraying or friction in the machine. 

I thought that I would go over the basic types of thread and list some qualities that are helpful in making decisions on what thread to use.

Cotton Thread...  

This thread is most popular among quilters.  Made from cotton fibers, it does not stretch and is low in luster.  This soft thread is great because it will change and move as the fabric shrinks.  It does however tend to fade and shrink.  The high quality cotton threads are made from the long cotton fibers, which are stronger and less likely to fray in your machine.

Polyester Thread...

This thread is a man made thread.  Most commonly used because it a strong thread that does not fade or shrink.  It has a medium luster and is easily found.  It is great for machine embroidery and in making clothes where seams will have more tension.

Silk Thread...

This thread is made from the silk worms cocoons.  Silk thread is more elastic and has a high luster.  It is thinner and tends to sink into garments, when sewn.  It is great to use for hand embroidery and needlework.

Rayon Thread...

This thread is another man made thread.  It has a high luster and is softer and more heat resistant than polyester.   It is less elastic than polyester, but not as colorfast or durable as polyester thread.  It is very cost efficient.

Nylon Thread...

This thread is also synthetic.  The negatives out way the positives of this thread, so use with caution.  It is a very strong thread, but is not color fast or heat resistant and will deteriorate over time with laundering.


There are differences in cheap thread and better quality thread.
You will get what you pay for in the thread department!!!
Thread should be easy to pass through the eye of a needle {without too much licking}.

Cheaper thread will look like this under a microscope... frayed and bumpy...

{picture from here}

A good thread will look like this under a microscope... smooth...

{picture from here}

Seamstresses will debate over which thread works best according to their experience.  There are lots of great threads out there.  I typically use Coats and Clark, Mettler, or Gutterman.  On cheap projects, I will purchase the bargain thread, but try to avoid those thread when sewing for others!!!

I hope this helps when you are looking through the sea of threads :)

P.S.  If you haven't checked out the awesome gingher giveway... do it and follow along to be entered into the drawing... I will announce it tonight :)